Without vibrant and radiant colors, Oriental rugs would likely be less desirable works of art. The traditional art of dyeing allows for the magnificent decorative effects seen in rugs. Family recipes for specific colors have been closely guarded and often passed down from generation to generation.
Most rugs contain either natural or synthetic dyes. Natural dyes are
made from vegetable or mineral sources. One of the most important natural coloring
agents is from the madder, a common plant that grows wild in Persia.
The root of the madder produces dye for various shades of red and pink.
When combined with a mixture of milk and fermented grape juice, the madder
root yields a violet dye. The bright red cochineal insect also provides
red dye, as well as the kermes insect that lives in the bark of oak trees.
Saffron produces the brightest and also the most expensive yellow. Sumac,
turmeric, and pomegranate also supply various yellow dyes.
Green can
be made from a dyeing of indigo followed by a bath of yellow. The infrequently
used black dye came from iron oxide, and it was the only dye of mineral
origin. However, the acid substance created from soaking iron shavings
with vinegar can have a corrosive effect on wool. Brown dyes can
be made by mixing madder root with yellow or from the shells of green
walnuts, gallnuts, and valonia. Brown dyes sometimes have a tendency
to dull with age.
Synthetic dyes are made from either aniline or chrome. William Perkin, an 18-year-old chemistry student, invented aniline dye in 1856. Aniline dyes are derived from chemical processes rather than from natural resources. Developed around 1940, chrome dyes use potassium bicarbonate and come in a wide range of rich colors.
Until the late nineteenth century, only natural dyes were used for coloring weaving yarns. Synthetic aniline dyes made from coal tar were brilliant, inexpensive, and easy to use; however, they faded rapidly with exposure to light and water. When chrome dyes came along, they were proven colorfast and non-corrosive to the wool.
Today, mostly chrome synthetic dyes are used to color weaving yarns. Natural dyes are used in places where they are easily obtainable. Sometimes the two types of dyed yarns are used side by side in the same piece.
For both dye types, vats of water are hand-fired and then the dye is added to the water. The yarn is then placed into the boiling mixture and stirred around until it reaches the desired color. Next, it is removed from the vat and hung on lines to dry in the sun. Once the yarn is dry, weaving can begin.
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